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General Discussion / Re: O/T - Tires - How old is too old?
« Last post by 69cobrajetrugae2 on April 23, 2017, 02:13:32 pm »
I would agree with Randy that bias ply tires are very durable if stored correctly because the rubber might be of an excellent quality.  One method of engineering is to design a mechanical part that has shortcomings that are solved with the quality of the materials which may have been the case with bias ply tires and how they we're constructed.

Case in point.  The Toyota 20R engine is a winner, many have gone 3 to 5 hundred thousand miles.  I knew many people that cooked those engines due to a V belt failing that drives the water pump and alternator.  The belt was too small but the Toyota belt was very special and designed to last.  To save a few bucks guys would use cheap belt and they would break, usually on the freeway. In addition, they had an oversized air cleaner fit with a beautiful cotton woven filter with heavy pleats to keep the finest dirt particles out of the engine, I'd love to find a cotton one for my CJ.
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General Discussion / Re: O/T - Tires - How old is too old?
« Last post by bgp429 on April 22, 2017, 11:56:01 pm »
I work at a shop that also sells a bunch of tires. Nothing over 10 years old. They won't repair, remove, rotate or anything else. if it's 10 years old either replace it or we can't touch it. We can't even remove an old tire for other unrelated repairs such as brakes. They obviously sell new tires and are concerned about liability but there are many cases of tires older than 10 years that failed.

I have 2 sets of BFG's that will need replacement [from age] in the next couple years. Doubt they have 1/32nd of wear.
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General Discussion / Re: O/T - Tires - How old is too old?
« Last post by geraldt52 on April 22, 2017, 07:27:29 pm »
I have a set of 4 brand new Goodyear Polyglass H-70 15s from the early '70s in my basement. Never seen the sun. Are they gold or are they junk?

Well, they may be gold, if you can figure out what vehicle(s) they might have been original equipment on, and that vehicle is something that is commonly restored for concourse showing.  I can't think of any candidates off hand, as I think a late 60s Vette would have been smaller than an H...maybe a 427 Impala, or a 454 Monte Carlo?

I know that I wouldn't be doing any significant driving on near 50 year old tires, but I could see putting them on a car that was only occasionally driven short distances at relatively low speeds, or just pulled on and off a truck/trailer.  I've heard people suggest just running a tube in them, but that's no protection against the tread separating and beating your car up.
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General Discussion / Re: O/T - Tires - How old is too old?
« Last post by 69cobrajetrugae2 on April 22, 2017, 03:19:53 pm »
Acid rain that we have in big cities here on the west coast is the worst for tires.  Sun and heat shares the number one position.


We have 43 week 1973 tires on a 66 mustang that we drive on and there's no leaks, cracks or changes in the balance.  But, We won't drive the car on hot pavement.

I would take one to a tire shop and very slowly stretch it on a tire machine as you would if you are mounting the tire. Chalk the points where it stretches.  Take it home and check it over a period of months for deformity's, cracks, or other defects where it was stretched and if it looks good, then I would use them.

Keep a close eye on them and do a full tire inspection every time you drive the car!
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General Discussion / Re: O/T - Tires - How old is too old?
« Last post by COCJ on April 22, 2017, 02:57:50 pm »
I have a set of 4 brand new Goodyear Polyglass H-70 15s from the early '70s in my basement. Never seen the sun. Are they gold or are they junk?
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General Discussion / Re: Help. The Motor won't fit
« Last post by COCJ on April 22, 2017, 02:39:29 pm »
If the headers have a solid flange, I would cut it between each pipe. They will seal better and you might get a little more clearance on some bolts. I have Hooker Super Comps and that's what I did. I managed to install 30 out of 32 bolts. Also learned several new combinations of cuss words, and I have a few more unusual wrenches, swivels, and sockets! Remove the valve covers and you will have more room to work.

Ditto on the export brace and Monte Carlo bar.
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General Discussion / Re: 69/70 de Luxe door panels
« Last post by ed meyer on April 21, 2017, 11:52:44 am »
both panels different between 69-70  as 70 has smaller or shorter doorcups & original doorcups are potmetal & repo plastic  but now I think new repo ismetal but not sure.
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General Discussion / Re: Valve Cover Baffles- Can I run without?
« Last post by Vcode on April 21, 2017, 08:18:48 am »
Here's the post from 2015
https://www.428cobrajet.org/forum/index.php?topic=22376.0

Looks like the pictures are not showing up.
There seems to be an issue with the Mustang Heaven Photo Gallery site. I noticed several of my pictures and several of the other members pictures are all blacked out??

Chris's pictures are shown and I believe we are running the same set up.
I will try to repost the pictures.
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General Discussion / Re: Valve Cover Baffles- Can I run without?
« Last post by RoyceP on April 20, 2017, 10:39:35 pm »
Mine too. I am also using FPP rocker stands. No problem using the oil drip tins.

Make sure to do a trial fit before you modify the covers.

I run the Carl's (old FPP design) roller rockers and have no issues with interference with the stock valve covers.

My Harland Sharp's also fit under stock covers.
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General Discussion / Re: Valve Cover Baffles- Can I run without?
« Last post by Vcode on April 20, 2017, 03:10:50 pm »
+1 on the Harland Sharp
Are you using stock covers?
I gave the machine shop a set of repo lettered covers and they won't fit - the stock ones fit fine.

Yes, I'm running the chrome Power By Ford stock covers on the Grande with the Harland Sharp's.  If end stands are an issue, you can grind on the corners of them if needed.


I am using the POP stands - no issues with those and the lettered covers.

Really?  I have FPP / POPS stands, and I had to remove the baffles.  Mine are reproductions "428 Cobra Jet" covers from Tony Branda though.  Are your valve covers original or repops?  I was using those covers before getting the tall Blue Thunder "Cobra 428" covers.

I am running the original lettered covers with the baffles - no issues.
The repo lettered covers I had would not fit.

Do you still have both the original and the reproduction sets?  If you do, next time you have a valve cover off, could you post some pictures to show the differences?  I was under the impression they were the same, except the reproductions had screws/bolts instead of rivets to hold the spark plug wire loom mounting piece.  Sounds like there is something different about the baffles now also.  Might help some others save some money and/or headaches in the future.

I had pictures on a post here a couple of years.
Will see if I can find that post.
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