Author Topic: That Royal Maroon...  (Read 408 times)

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Offline 70cj428

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Re: That Royal Maroon...
« Reply #15 on: June 18, 2017, 05:01:38 pm »
I've had several " drivers" that I've painted in Royal Maroon or Vintage Burgundy... If you use single stage enamel you really have to keep it waxed as any oxidation or micro scratches dull the color and make the car look dirty. The solution is using a base coat/clear coat system (2 stage) with good quality clear. The car will stay great looking a lot longer, but you'll loose points at a show for using 2 stage paint ...

As for cost, Automotive paint products are getting crazy expensive... Just the primer (tinted 2 part epoxy) and high quality base coat / clear coat (both two part) paint to do my 68 cost almost 1900.00 for materials, and it's Wimbleton White (not an expensive color)

The shop I borrow for my paint work just had a new BMW in that needed a panel painted, the color was only available as a factory mix (a deep blue metallic) and cost 186.00 a PINT.....  Now add the cost of the clear and the hardener ....

At least I'm in a state that still lets you use non water based paints ...

John
« Last Edit: June 19, 2017, 04:29:25 pm by 70cj428 »

Offline Vcode

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Re: That Royal Maroon...
« Reply #16 on: June 19, 2017, 06:16:53 am »
'69 Mach 1 SCJ

Offline momentum

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Re: That Royal Maroon...
« Reply #17 on: June 19, 2017, 07:27:31 am »
Saw this RM 69 at Carlisle this year.
https://www.428cobrajet.org/forum/index.php?topic=24256.15

Thanks !
They all lookpretty well done. Love the engine detailing on the candy apple..
1967 Ford Mustang Fastback 408W, Rotisserie restoration
1969 Ford Mustang Mach 1 428 Cobra Jet, Current project
1978 Jeep Cherokee, Driver

Offline 69cobrajetrugae2

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Re: That Royal Maroon...
« Reply #18 on: June 19, 2017, 09:17:57 am »
The paints have improved in the last few years and there are national standard paints and primers and low VOC paints and primers but I don't think there is much of a difference, here in CA the paints that are available are not water based but use very little solvent.

I used the top of the line HOK urethane primer with is 4/1/1, 4 primer, 1 active, 1 reducer.  4/1/2 is the ratio for a sealer 30 minutes before the topcoat.  HOK said that the urethane primer can be used as a filler and I didn't believe it, it's true.  Fantastic stuff.

Top shops are painting single stage adding 25% clear in the final coats.  Shops are spraying single state Verathane paints which is the cost effective division of HOK then right before it is fully flashed off they are clear coating it.  This single stage two stage hybrid is not endorsed by Varathane but it's being done.

Offline mqu02

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Re: That Royal Maroon...
« Reply #19 on: June 23, 2017, 12:41:30 am »
My vote would be to stay with the original color of Royal Maroon, but make sure to paint in BC/CC.  You are staying with the original color which helps resale, and it is a very desirable color as well.  In my opinion only, Gulfstream Aqua, Royal Maroon, and Indian Fire would be the only color cars I would add to my my stable.  Royal Maroon is a very desirable color, and in BC/CC, looks totally amazing in the sun.

Offline momentum

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Re: That Royal Maroon...
« Reply #20 on: June 23, 2017, 02:00:51 am »
Thanks for your opinion.

Yes  - indeed my thinking goes more and more in that direction...

Today i have a briefing with the paint shop. They will produce some samples for me.
1967 Ford Mustang Fastback 408W, Rotisserie restoration
1969 Ford Mustang Mach 1 428 Cobra Jet, Current project
1978 Jeep Cherokee, Driver

Offline 69cobrajetrugae2

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Re: That Royal Maroon...
« Reply #21 on: June 23, 2017, 02:40:00 am »
I would buy the paint as opposed to have them mix it onsite and watch them open the cans and mix it and spray it.  Take the position of a hobbyist that wants to be involved in the process as opposed to a untrusting soul.

The toners for darker colors especially reds are expensive and they have ways of shortcutting the batch which will save them hundreds of dollars by substituting a cheap toner in the name brand can.  Ebay HOK or PPG toners and price them out, used.

You should be called when it's ready to prime to see the bare substrate and called when it's top coat time if you want a guarantee of a beautiful long lasting paintjob.

Call the tech line at PPG or HOK and ask how does one tell their toner from a cheaper brand.  I can tell by the thick dried toner on the can spout, cheap toners have a thinner residue on the can and paint drips will extend to the bottom of the can where the best is thick goo. In fact, cheap paints may not have toners and are factory packed so the painter will mix this and that to achieve the desired color which is what initially concerned you, and rightly so.

The paint supply store will do a spray out and the sample needs several hours in the sun within a 24 hour period because some colors can move quite a bit.  Once you are happy then he mixes the batch.

Shops will rush a job and use accelerants and heat which is necessary for production on collision repair but a classic car needs time, some shops will let them sit with a urethane primer  through the winter and summer months allowing temperature swings from 20 to 100 degrees to let the substrates expand and contract.  These jobs are expensive but will look paint shop fresh for 20 years or more.

« Last Edit: June 23, 2017, 03:05:59 am by 69cobrajetrugae2 »