Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
1
General Discussion / Re: When did the c9zz oil pan start being used ?
« Last post by ed meyer on Today at 12:03:35 am »
No  its an automatic
2
General Discussion / Re: When did the c9zz oil pan start being used ?
« Last post by crossboss on February 18, 2019, 11:55:00 pm »
Worked on a low mile dearborn 69 scj engine yesterday & the rear lh block corner had assembly stamp  8k11 & block heads dampner timing cover all cast dates in sept. The windage tray was the first (shorter version) B type of which i would expect however the oil pan was the c6oz type date stamped 9 something of which is sept so all date codes fall in place. So anybody documented the c9zz oil pan used before oct 11 1968?  Also this scj had sept 68 date cast  snake valve covers. This scj engine came out of a 13.000 mile auto shelby built early feb 69.  So this scj engine was assembled 4 months before it was used & i am wondering if ford built these rarer scjs in batches & they never got used as often as  more common cjs & being built both manual & auto  scjs they sat around longer in inventory before being used than the cjs did. Or did ford built the scjs in separate batches of automatics  & then manuals?



Ed.
Possible this engine was a take out from a Boss 429 'conversion'?
3
General Discussion / Re: 69-70 Trans Am Disc brake conversion. Anyone done one?
« Last post by crossboss on February 18, 2019, 11:51:46 pm »
I am looking to see what factory rotors and caliper mounting bracket that was used with the Boss 302 brake conversion as listed in the modification book.

                                                                                                                     -Keith



Lincoln spindles, rotors and calipers.
4
General Discussion / Re: 68 brake issue
« Last post by geraldt52 on February 18, 2019, 07:37:05 pm »
I kinda thought that this thread was going to go this way...

LOL...yeah, you could kind of see it coming along the way, huh  :).  Too bad that someone in search of help will probably refer back to this thread someday and not be able to tell fact from fiction.  FWIW, I don't think it is even possible to completely bleed the calipers with them installed on the wrong sides. 
5
General Discussion / Re: 68 brake issue
« Last post by 70cj428 on February 18, 2019, 06:06:20 pm »
Quote
Swapping them didnt fix the low pressure issue I had with the LF.  Getting the shuttle valve back to center did.  And if the shuttle valve in the block has nothing to do with bleeding or pressure, why is there a special tool to hold the shuttle valve in center, while you bleed the brakes?  Some of y'all think you know everything and cant admit "geez I didnt know that". 

The special tool avoids the unpleasant, time consuming , messy situation of recentering the valve by bleeding the opposing side of the system. Aside from being messy, it's hard to determine which side the valve is shifted to, so centering it can be a real hassle. By removing the switch, and installing the tool, the problem is solved....

I kinda thought that this thread was going to go this way, and I had thought about just keeping my mouth shut. However, these threads live on forever (Theoretically) and a lot of others with the same issue may reference this thread for years to come so accurate info is important. Fortunately, this forum isn't like facebook that has more than it's share of mental midgets. There's a ton of Knowledge here, from guys with 30-40 years of experience with these cars, including several engineers  (some who actually did developmental work on these cars when they were new.) (Scott, who's answer you don't agree with, has probably disassembled and analyzed dozens of these valves developing the kits to rebuild them)

Another way to look at this is that ford would never design the system to limit the pressure to just one front wheel in the event of a hydraulic failure, the result would be an asymmetric application of braking force and the car darting right or left when you hit the brakes just when you needed all the braking help you could get.

I'd be the first to admit "geez I didnt know that" If I wasn't confident of my answers   ( If I wasn't confidant of an answer, I wouldn't offer any advice in the first place....)  Get to know some of the guys on here before you question there intelligence....

JMHO, John

6
Restoration Tips & Techniques / Re: 69 fb headliner bow placement
« Last post by corbins on February 18, 2019, 05:49:04 pm »
apparently , high front is the answer ... ::)
7
Cobra Jet Drag Racing / Re: C/SA @ Indy. Richie Pauley 135
« Last post by LightWtJet on February 18, 2019, 05:44:09 pm »
Richie Pauley car is likely the highest prepared CJ in a stock class ever. In this video I think he was running about 10.40's . A 455 1970 Buick was  running about 10.10's  and a late model fuel injected Camaro with 376 cu in running from 9.91 to 10.07 times. The Camaro won.
Where NHRA factors the horsepower does create non competitive combinations.  The CJ and the Buick have been honed for all these years - it does appear to me the fuel injected Camaro should have the horsepower rating looked at.  Anyway - great racing - especially the 50 year old cars.
Thanks 4284spd for the video.   
8
General Discussion / Re: 68 brake issue
« Last post by 69cobrajetrugae2 on February 18, 2019, 04:40:59 pm »
+1 Royce.

Bleeding brakes on our cars is a non issue to most of us because we understand what's happening.

That tool is silly and useless unless a customer insists on buying one, then the customer is always right.

I never thought a qualified person would have a problem with bleeding brakes.

Here is how I've always charged a dry brake system.

Fill up the reservoir and cap it.

Crack the passenger rear bleeder valve and attach a tube to a coffee can.

Reach down and slowly depress and release the brake pedal a few times.  Don't bury it to the floorboard, just a couple of inches!

Wait a half hour or until brake fluid is witnessed in the coffee can then I repeat the process on the drivers rear, passenger front, and lastly the drivers front brakes.

Using the assistant pumping the pedal can warp and damage seals because trapped air under 1200 PSI can be forced through a seal which is designed to retain brake fluid.
9
General Discussion / Re: 68 brake issue
« Last post by RoyceP on February 18, 2019, 03:07:49 pm »
Holding it in the center turns the light off. The switch - it is not a "shuttle valve" - doesn't have any effect on the brakes at all. You need to hold it in place while bleeding the brakes so that the light will be off when you are done. Bleeding the brakes makes the switch turn on because it thinks there is a differential pressure failure.

The four brakes bleed just fine, even with the front calipers installed wrong.  Swapping them didnt fix the low pressure issue I had with the LF.  Getting the shuttle valve back to center did.  And if the shuttle valve in the block has nothing to do with bleeding or pressure, why is there a special tool to hold the shuttle valve in center, while you bleed the brakes?  Some of y'all think you know everything and cant admit "geez I didnt know that".  I'm done with this thread, I appreciate the help from those that did try.       
10
General Discussion / Re: 68 brake issue
« Last post by smines80 on February 18, 2019, 01:48:34 pm »
The four brakes bleed just fine, even with the front calipers installed wrong.  Swapping them didnt fix the low pressure issue I had with the LF.  Getting the shuttle valve back to center did.  And if the shuttle valve in the block has nothing to do with bleeding or pressure, why is there a special tool to hold the shuttle valve in center, while you bleed the brakes?  Some of y'all think you know everything and cant admit "geez I didnt know that".  I'm done with this thread, I appreciate the help from those that did try.         
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10