Author Topic: Center Console Restoration - Vendor Required  (Read 697 times)

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Offline Frostbiten

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Center Console Restoration - Vendor Required
« on: March 01, 2018, 11:38:41 am »
Does anyone have any positive feedback for a great vendor that restores center consoles?
 
Price
Turnaround time
Quality of work
Contact info

Thanks, Mark
Mark

68.5 Tahoe Turquoise Dearborn June 20th- 4:30s

Offline Frostbiten

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Re: Center Console Restoration - Vendor Required
« Reply #1 on: March 03, 2018, 12:47:09 pm »
1st and last bump....

This seems strange to me, has no one had any experience with center console restoration?

Mark

68.5 Tahoe Turquoise Dearborn June 20th- 4:30s

Offline sportyworty

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Re: Center Console Restoration - Vendor Required
« Reply #2 on: March 03, 2018, 01:20:00 pm »
Mark I think justdashes.com does them. Mascar had the 69 convertible console restored. Extremely expensive imo. I just restore my own 68 stuff so not sure if you have a foam issue or cracked base or what exactly. For 68 cars I just piece together good parts to complete a core and send out the plating stuff. Have always been lucky enough on the soft parts finding nice original pieces and dye them. Anyway not much help maybe so I will ask a couple people for specifics
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Offline Frostbiten

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Re: Center Console Restoration - Vendor Required
« Reply #3 on: March 03, 2018, 04:07:52 pm »
Thanks for the response Kerry,

I know this has been pointed out numerous times but thank you for always stepping up and sharing your thoughts and experiences.

I searched the Registry database and found very few hits on this subject. My console is in decent shape with no major damage. It is showing its age and there is some wrinkling around the radio and garage door. This is a one off part for 68 and nobody carries all of the replacement parts. I have had some positive experience with dye's but I'm not sure about the plastic chroming and proper texturing. Frankly I would like it to look "day one" and would rather leave it to a professional shop.
I came across an ad in MCR for a company called, Instrument -Specialties in RI. If anyone has used them or can give a great review on others, would like to hear about it.
« Last Edit: March 03, 2018, 04:20:15 pm by Frostbiten »
Mark

68.5 Tahoe Turquoise Dearborn June 20th- 4:30s

Offline sah62

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Re: Center Console Restoration - Vendor Required
« Reply #4 on: March 03, 2018, 04:26:29 pm »
1st and last bump....

This seems strange to me, has no one had any experience with center console restoration?

I did mine myself, so no.
Scott Hollenbeck
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Offline dieseldave

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Re: Center Console Restoration - Vendor Required
« Reply #5 on: March 03, 2018, 05:04:48 pm »
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=16667.msg105082#msg105082    Unfortunatly the link to the SAAC forum doesn't work. Maybe Rich can remember who repairs the consoles. Thought the guy was from Mi. You could also ask on the SAAC forum.

Offline 69cobrajetrugae2

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Re: Center Console Restoration - Vendor Required
« Reply #6 on: March 03, 2018, 07:16:23 pm »
With respect to the poster here and his 67/68 console.

I have done restoration work and will share what I've learned the "hard way" and perhaps this might help those of you that may attempt to perform the restoration yourself or select a vendor.

The factory used inexpensive paint and other related materials with respect to the construction of their cars.  It was the process that produced a durable and attractive product and that process in almost every case involved "heat and the thickness of the application material".

I measured the thickness of the engine bay flat black paint on my San Jose car and it averaged .80 to 1.25 thousands.  Thin applications applied with high heat are durable because most everything in our world expands with heat and contracts with cold. When the engine bay paint in my car approaches 200 F the thin paint expands with the metal underlayment, what else can it do.  When the paint and underlayment approaches Zero F it contracts, what else can it do.  It's the contraction that's the elephant in the room.  Thin applications of materials can "Stack up" and maintain integrity without a film failure.  If a new balloon was inflated then deflated, it's larger in it's deflated condition than it was when it was new.  If the balloon was able to deflate to it's original dimensions there would be witness to wrinkles since the extra rubber material has nowhere to go. If the balloon was constructed of thin rubber when it's deflated the "stack up" of material is minimized since there is less to begin with.

 From what I've been able to ascertain dashboards and other vinyl parts manufactured back in the day were molded at 250F which is slightly below the temperatures which the finished part will experience, heat wise, in the field.

An 89 Ford fleet side truck 1 ton 4 by 4 was purchased new and is owned by a friend in Lake Havasu Az.  One day in 2010 I went for a ride in it and noticed the interior was in good shape with respect to cracks.  The interior was filthy dirty since it was acquired to be a work truck. I learned that he never garaged the truck and never detailed it with respect to the interior parts being subjected to any type of rubber or vinyl dressing. The interior of the truck was subjected to in excess of 200F for 4 months a year times 20 years.

 If he had applied any type of dressing it would have changed the expansion and contraction of the material since the absorption rate would/could not have been uniform. There is a reason why dash boards crack at curves and defrost vents, the material is searching for relief when it's contracting since the dressing promoted a more vigorous expansion when it was hot.

We know it's likely to have been subjected to a dressing of some type, the worst one possible is Armor All although since the condition of said console looks good to me it's not seen Armor All.  Armor All is a silicoln based product and almost impossible to remove in preparation for refinishing.  Any solvent will melt it in and make matters worse.  The correct method is ice water and a small amount of Dawn and a tooth brush.  Scrub it with the Dawn solution and wipe with a water soaked towel and dry.  I would do this once a day for 7 days.  Rattle cans are the best material we can get because they are not subjected to the same laws as paint store jobber mixed materials. Get a selection of cans in different colors and spray them into a glass container to achieve the shade you want. 

Heat the console to 250F and of course watch it as it's heating up for signs of trouble and don't move it.  Heat the paint to 150F and use a tiny spray gun, Harbor freight sells a good one for 10 dollars but be sure to clean it after each use and don't slam the needle on the seat.  Apply a thin coat just enough to color it but not enough to hide light spots on the console.  Leave it at 250F for 4 hours then shut off the heat and let it cool in place. Wait 1 week curing it in the sun or the oven at 120F during the day then the refrigerator wrapped in towels at night.

One week later try to scrape some paint off the console.  You should not be able to scrape it off very easily using the flat spot of a common screwdriver. You are looking for adhesion qualities similar to when the car was new.  Of course you will damage the finish but in no case should the paint chip off.  If it doesn't pass then a round of wax and grease remover and dawn is the only recourse.  If it does pass a good scrubbing with Dawn is the next step.  The next day heat the console to 250F and apply as many thin coats as required to achieve proper hiding and appearance.  Don't wait for flash times, the heat will flash it as soon as the paint hits the console and any solvent trapping will help the adhesion since it will "Burn" the paint into the console plastic or vinyl material.
« Last Edit: March 03, 2018, 10:44:54 pm by 69cobrajetrugae2 »

Offline Frostbiten

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Re: Center Console Restoration - Vendor Required
« Reply #7 on: March 04, 2018, 02:08:32 am »
Wow, I always enjoy reading your comments and because I started this thread I felt obligated to read every word. If I do decide to take on this restoration, I will definitely use your experiences as a guideline. Not sure if the parts will fit in my wife's oven but if they do, I'll be sure she's not around to see it....

Thank you for taking the time to comment, I do appreciate the input.   
Mark

68.5 Tahoe Turquoise Dearborn June 20th- 4:30s

Offline 69cobrajetrugae2

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Re: Center Console Restoration - Vendor Required
« Reply #8 on: March 04, 2018, 03:27:31 am »
This website and the members here have helped me immensely so I try to share in area's where I have some experience.

For clarification, the oven that I use is a 2 burner propane stove which sits on a tool cart, both of which we're purchased at harbor freight. On top of the burners is about 150 pounds of steel which absorb the heat and disperse it evenly. I suspend the part above the stove and use a welders tarp above the part to fashion a tent to hold in the heat. Next I fiddle with it to maintain a constant temperature checking the part's temperature with a couple of laser thermometers.

I've dyed parts and got them so hot that the paint made an audible sizzle when it hit the part.  Distortion due to heat is what you have to be watchful for due to the value of the console.

 If the console could be screwed into a section of floor tunnel or something that is dimensionally similar to the tunnel in your car that would be perfect.  In any case I would not get the console above 150 F unless you can get your hands on a trashed console and see how hot you can get it before it starts to melt.  In my experience the plastic will start to give off a plastic smell long before you burn it so it's something to be careful with.

I died a white coat hanger rack black as a test.  It was a Ford part.  The paint sizzled when it hit the part, it was around 220F and the paint in the rattle can was about 160F after a bath in a 5 gallon bucket of boiling water. After it cured in a couple of days I cut the coat hanger in half and was surprised to find that the black paint penetrated about 15 thousands into the part! 

Be sure to record your process if you are successful, good luck!
« Last Edit: March 04, 2018, 08:43:12 am by 69cobrajetrugae2 »

Offline Frostbiten

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Re: Center Console Restoration - Vendor Required
« Reply #9 on: March 15, 2018, 11:49:00 am »
Thought I would add this link for the next guy researching options. Kerry made this suggestion earlier in this thread. I have not utilized their services yet but I plan too in the future. I'll update the thread when I finish the process.

 http://www.justdashes.com/2012/11/1968-ford-mustang-center-console-restoration-before-after/

« Last Edit: March 15, 2018, 04:29:43 pm by Frostbiten »
Mark

68.5 Tahoe Turquoise Dearborn June 20th- 4:30s

Offline 69cobrajetrugae2

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Re: Center Console Restoration - Vendor Required
« Reply #10 on: March 15, 2018, 09:31:10 pm »
Their work looks excellent but I wonder how it holds up after father time takes his toll.

I drive by Van Nuys several times a week, I'll stop by and check them out.

I believe that steering wheel restorers do not guarantee their restorations insofar as failures down the road such as cracking or otherwise.  I can restore a steering wheel and guarantee that it won't fail even with a strong man torquing a manual steering car into a parking slot but it would be likely too expensive for me to do it since my process is labor intensive.

Offline 9F91R

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Re: Center Console Restoration - Vendor Required
« Reply #11 on: March 15, 2018, 11:22:21 pm »
I plan on going with Instrument Specialties for my Cougar. I've seen their work on Graveyard Carz and it looks spectacular, that and just dashes did a dash for a '70 Cougar, the faux stitching disappeared was not present on the restored piece.

Offline Frostbiten

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Re: Center Console Restoration - Vendor Required
« Reply #12 on: March 16, 2018, 11:53:24 am »
That's the type of input I was hoping to hear. Please post before and after pictures of your console if you get the work done. thx
Mark

68.5 Tahoe Turquoise Dearborn June 20th- 4:30s