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Don't know what kind or size cables are on the car.  The previous owner installed them as well as the battery.  The battery is from Wallmart, (i and believe it to be about 38 months old.  I like your suggestion Scott.  I have a volt meter but not real smart on the use of it.  I'll bring it by Advance auto parts half mile from my house.  Thanks Scott.
What kind of cable are you using between your starter and starter solenoid? How is the cable routed to the starter? What kind of battery are you using, and have you had it checked for cranking amps?

A hot start issue can be caused by a number of factors. The starter could be going south, the cable (thicker cable is better than thinner cable) could be internally corroded, unshielded, or routed improperly causing it to get hot, the battery might have issues, etc. A lot of parts stores like Autozone and Advance Auto Parts will do free starting system checks that can help narrow down the possibilities. If you can eliminate the battery, for example, you'll know that the problem is between the battery and the starter itself.

After having issues with hot starts and reproduction batteries I switched to a modern Motorcraft group 27 battery and a new set of battery and starter cables. The factory installed starter cable was 6ga; you can get a thicker 4ga aftermarket cable if you wish. With these components and proper cable routing my car starts immediately even when hot.
Hey guys.  Having a issue with hot engine cranking.  Cranks slow when hot but cranks fine when cold.  I've been checking my cables and I'm not finding any corrosion.  The battery is reading 12.7 volts but it is 38 months old.  Any suggestions or should I just replace the battery?  Thanks ahead for your suggestions.   
Off-Topic Posts / Re: Contact in Australia Needed
« Last post by Jiffy on Today at 07:53:16 am »
Off-Topic Posts / Re: Contact in Australia Needed
« Last post by Aussiebloke on Today at 05:12:51 am »
Geez bit harsh there cobber!! Spewin, Might have to go to the bottle-o, get a slab of coopers, nip to the servo, grab some bikkie's and some Mozzie off in the next fortnight, bit snowed under atm, Not gonna do it in my togs though!! So stop your whinging!!!

Lets see in the septics can work it out Jiffy :o :o :o ;D
Off-Topic Posts / Re: Flush an engine and radiator?
« Last post by 69cobrajetrugae2 on Today at 12:36:20 am »
I ruined a otherwise healthy engine in an ill fated attempt to clean the cooling system.  I collapsed a mud lined cooling passage in a head and the coolant velocity was insufficient to clear the blockage when the engine was restored to service and I cracked the head.

Old coolant should be yellowish in comparison to new coolant in routine coolant change.

Rusty colored coolant indicates that metal inside your engine has been transformed to rust.  Damage has been done.

The idea is to arrest the corrosive process however removing the corrosion through a chemical assault is in my opinion a very bad idea because the metal which has been converted to corrosion is usually located in a critical area such as a gasket interface, head, intake, freeze plug or radiator and is doing the job of the metal which it replaced, that is to hold a seal.

I would drain the radiator and replace the old coolant with 50/50 antifreeze and 6 "bars leak" tabs and repeat every 1000 miles or three months, whichever comes first. Bars leak tablets is simply rosewood and expands with contact to air but will not get hard and cause other problems like sodium silicate "Glass" based stop leaks will.  Only use the tabs not the bars leaks liquid.

Chemicals will stir up and release rust fragments which in our engines are located in the block's water jacket.  Once liberated the rust fragments will take flight up through the heads and their cooling passages.  If the rust does not dam up in the heads they will likely dam up in the radiator causing a partial restriction which did not exist before the cooling system service.  Removing the block drains and thermostat and running the engine at idle adding water at the radiator at same rate that is flowing from both block drains sounds good but again in my opinion, the best approach is to slowly add fresh antifreeze as outlined in paragraph 5 and let sleeping dogs lie...   
General Discussion / Re: 68 hood scoop fasteners
« Last post by Chris Teeling on June 17, 2018, 11:01:15 pm »
Chris, the gaffers tape is on the top side of the hood under the scoop?

Yes. Top side of the hood under / inside the perimeter of the scoop.
General Discussion / Re: 1969 Mach 1 R-code project pre purchase info needed
« Last post by ken sungela on June 17, 2018, 10:05:26 pm »
Thanks for reminding me to look west.  I get no response when contacting the two cars mentioned above.  Post any other 69 project cars you see. Thanks
Off-Topic Posts / Re: Anyone looking for a 351C 4V 4-door?
« Last post by redscj on June 17, 2018, 09:45:41 pm »
     A 4 door 6 banger Falcon with a stripe kit. ;) I'd like to understand Ford's logic behind the Falcon choice. That car in the USA had a better chance of getting a grocery bag rack than a hi Po engine.
Off-Topic Posts / Re: Anyone looking for a 351C 4V 4-door?
« Last post by Jiffy on June 17, 2018, 09:24:27 pm »

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder I guess. They're not my cup of tea, but highly sought over by muscle car collectors over here. And $1M in Australian dollars is only about $750K in US$, but still.....

and I guess, they were a 'factory special' from back in the days when factories had to homologate race cars and make them available on the road. You could order one of these (380hp with all the boxes ticked) and you could drive them onto the track and race them. They made about 300 and with the ones lost due to racing, theft, poor driving, there's only around 400 left......
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