Author Topic: Valve Seals  (Read 449 times)

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Offline Brian Conway

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Valve Seals
« on: April 17, 2013, 09:40:03 pm »
     While I am in there replacing the valve seals I thought I would like to replace the springs.  Currently installed dual springs are a least ten years old and could probably be replaced.  I know nothing about the springs/valves - or the cam.  The heads are the 6090 N's but the valve train has been switched to solid lifters.  Seem to be having a little difficulty locating the correct 3/8" round x 10 5/8" long  ball & cup push rod.  Suggestions; springs and pushrods ?  Thanks,  Brian
65 5R09A 4 spd  GT  Built 5/29/65 
69 9T02R 4 spd  SCJ Built 9/19/68
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Offline pstmechatronics

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Re: Valve Seals
« Reply #1 on: April 18, 2013, 09:11:47 am »
Brian, I can´t give you a suggestion on changing the parts or not.
But if you decide to do, contact Alex Krasowski at Alex´s Parts in CA. He will make custom pushrods at about $100 for the set of 16.
I ordered my whole valve train stuff from him.

philipp

Offline rockhouse66

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Re: Valve Seals
« Reply #2 on: April 18, 2013, 09:37:40 am »
I don't understand why you need pushrods, but you can buy stock style ball/cup under Sealed Power RP 3023 for about $3 each or the chrome moly version RP 3023R for about $10 each.  Rock Auto has them.

The springs should be matched to suit the cam, but if it is a street grind, the standard Comp spring is usually their 924-16 and is sort of "universal" IMO.  You have to be careful which seals you run with which springs because there may be clearance issues.
Jim

'69 Grande CJ

Offline Brian Conway

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Re: Valve Seals
« Reply #3 on: April 18, 2013, 10:38:43 am »
     Thanks for taking a look guys.  Rock Auto does not have a replacement rod.  The two rods, 10 5/8" x 3/8"  in the photo are damaged and I would like to replace them.  I will be careful when selecting the umbrella seals and check for clearance's.  Brian
65 5R09A 4 spd  GT  Built 5/29/65 
69 9T02R 4 spd  SCJ Built 9/19/68
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Offline RoyceP

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Re: Valve Seals
« Reply #4 on: April 18, 2013, 11:06:56 am »
You can buy the pushrods from Smith Brothers:
 http://www.pushrods.net/

Call on Monday and they will be at your house on Wednesday.
1910 Model T Ford Touring Red
1915 Model T Ford Touring Black
1914 Model T Ford Touring
1917 Model T Ford Torpedo Green
1968 Mercury Cougar XR-7 GT-E Green 427 W Code
1968 Mercury Cougar XR-7 428CJ R code 3.91 C6

Offline redscj

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Re: Valve Seals
« Reply #5 on: April 18, 2013, 12:26:39 pm »
     Ball and cup push rods are for a 427 application. Don't ask for a 428 rod or you'll get stupid looks. I see them on EBay fairly often.
Grant
69 Mach 1 Dearborn SCJ 4.30 4spd 6/17/69 Candy Apple Red
69 Sportsroof Metuchen SCJ 4.30 C6 5/28/69 Acapulco Blue

Offline rockhouse66

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Re: Valve Seals
« Reply #6 on: April 18, 2013, 12:36:07 pm »
OK, you need custom length pushrods, much longer than stock, and the ones at Rock Auto are stock 9.53" L.

The last custom ones I bought came from Smith Bros and they shipped very quickly as stated by Royce.
Jim

'69 Grande CJ

Offline redscj

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Re: Valve Seals
« Reply #7 on: April 18, 2013, 01:37:15 pm »
Quote
OK, you need custom length pushrods, much longer than stock, and the ones at Rock Auto are stock 9.53" L.
     Are you sure? I thought that they were measured center of ball to center of ball. So by using a tape measure they would appear longer. Has anything in the valve train been changed that would require custom pushrods?
Grant
69 Mach 1 Dearborn SCJ 4.30 4spd 6/17/69 Candy Apple Red
69 Sportsroof Metuchen SCJ 4.30 C6 5/28/69 Acapulco Blue

Offline RoyceP

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Re: Valve Seals
« Reply #8 on: April 18, 2013, 03:03:46 pm »
Did you read the first post?

Quote
OK, you need custom length pushrods, much longer than stock, and the ones at Rock Auto are stock 9.53" L.
     Are you sure? I thought that they were measured center of ball to center of ball. So by using a tape measure they would appear longer. Has anything in the valve train been changed that would require custom pushrods?
1910 Model T Ford Touring Red
1915 Model T Ford Touring Black
1914 Model T Ford Touring
1917 Model T Ford Torpedo Green
1968 Mercury Cougar XR-7 GT-E Green 427 W Code
1968 Mercury Cougar XR-7 428CJ R code 3.91 C6

Offline BIGBLOCKHEAD

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Re: Valve Seals
« Reply #9 on: April 18, 2013, 04:04:13 pm »
Not to hijack your thread, but I am about to change valve springs on my car and was wondering what kind of valve spring compressor would work on the engine still in the car.  The standard screw type setup looks like it would work, but there must be a better way.  Any ideas?
stew

Offline redscj

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Re: Valve Seals
« Reply #10 on: April 18, 2013, 05:34:40 pm »
Quote
Did you read the first post?
     All I saw was the mention of solid lifters. They won't work with 427 ball and cup pushrods?
Grant
69 Mach 1 Dearborn SCJ 4.30 4spd 6/17/69 Candy Apple Red
69 Sportsroof Metuchen SCJ 4.30 C6 5/28/69 Acapulco Blue

Offline Brian Conway

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Re: Valve Seals
« Reply #11 on: April 18, 2013, 05:50:16 pm »
Went over to Crower Racing Cams and got the rods.  Very nice almost identical little different on the cup design but basically the same.  These are for shell solid lifters and in short about one inch longer than the stock hydraulic version.  Ten dollars each for the rods and ten dollars each for the adjusters.   Thanks for the help.  Will post some pics of the tools used tomorrow ?   Brian
« Last Edit: April 19, 2013, 09:29:13 am by Brian Conway »
65 5R09A 4 spd  GT  Built 5/29/65 
69 9T02R 4 spd  SCJ Built 9/19/68
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Offline RoyceP

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Re: Valve Seals
« Reply #12 on: April 19, 2013, 07:17:11 am »
Why not? Every solid lifter 427 came with ball and cup pushrods originally. The ball and cup pushrods are required when using  adjustable 427 factory rockers. Solid lifter / hydraulic lifter makes no difference in the type of pushrod being used.

Quote
Did you read the first post?
     All I saw was the mention of solid lifters. They won't work with 427 ball and cup pushrods?
1910 Model T Ford Touring Red
1915 Model T Ford Touring Black
1914 Model T Ford Touring
1917 Model T Ford Torpedo Green
1968 Mercury Cougar XR-7 GT-E Green 427 W Code
1968 Mercury Cougar XR-7 428CJ R code 3.91 C6

Offline Brian Conway

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Re: Valve Seals
« Reply #13 on: April 19, 2013, 08:23:20 pm »
     Removed one spring and found a 'Perfect Circle' seal.  Replaced the spring and moved onto valve adjustment.  Buttoned everything up, started the car usual oil pressure and idle.  First valve adj. since I've had the car and the first one I've done since the late seventy's.
     Some stuff to share;

     As Rockhouse mentioned the umbrella seals won't fit inside some of the dual springs.
     The screw type tool BIGBLOCKHEAD mentioned has a hard time grabbing a dual spring.  Can be done but takes a little extra care.
     I like to bring the piston up TDC on which ever cylinder I am working on.  Even if everything goes wrong the valve doesn't drop out of sight.
     I make a large graphic display of the numbered cylinders , the distributor and its direction of rotation and the firing order.  It helps me from becoming   
     totally confused.

    There is something about the sound of a solid lifter valve train.    Brian
     
         
65 5R09A 4 spd  GT  Built 5/29/65 
69 9T02R 4 spd  SCJ Built 9/19/68
Owner Driver Mechanic