Mustang 428 Cobra Jet Registry Forum

Discussion => Off-Topic Posts => Topic started by: 1of1044 on July 29, 2018, 07:31:44 pm

Title: Storage conditions
Post by: 1of1044 on July 29, 2018, 07:31:44 pm
Is there a certain humidity/temperature range needed to maintain a freshly restored vehicle?
Title: Re: Storage conditions
Post by: ac427 on July 30, 2018, 03:31:40 pm
I was told to use an ideal of 68 temp and 45 humidity. A body bag is an easier way of controlling less space hence less cost.
Title: Re: Storage conditions
Post by: ac427 on July 30, 2018, 07:54:38 pm
Depending on how many cars verses how big the storage area (cubic foot of space) depends on what is more efficient.
-One car in big shed, something like the German permabag is probably better
-Many cars jammed into a fully insulated low ceiling garage, AC or heater and dehumidifier.
This is ideal yet costly
Clearly keeping temp above dew point is streets better than outside in the elements
Title: Re: Storage conditions
Post by: 69cobrajetrugae2 on July 31, 2018, 08:42:02 am
Yes, managing dew point and avoiding rapid temperature and humidity changes might be the most important.

Keeping the wife happy must be a close second given the case of the wandering classic car guy that came home to find his wife had polished off a couple bottles of wine and in her exuberance wore out her high heel shoe collection on the cars bodywork..
Title: Re: Storage conditions
Post by: 1of1044 on August 01, 2018, 06:28:31 pm
Thanks for the replies. My shop is 1500 sq ft, 10 ft ceilings, R30 ceilings, R11 in walls, 2 12 ft wide insulated garage doors. At any given time there will be only 2 cars stored/parks in there. Want to protect my investment! I have thought about the body bag and may give it more thought but I like the idea of a climate controlled environment. Now I am using a couple of fans in the summer and a forced air kerosene heater in the cold months but kerosene is expensive, and can leave an odor in the air. My HVAC guy was asking what I needed the conditions to be. Guess he was trying to size up the unit needed. That’s why I posted this. Thanks to all for replying!
Title: Re: Storage conditions
Post by: 69cobrajetrugae2 on August 01, 2018, 09:06:36 pm
I was thinking of constructing a wood box that moves on wheels and drops to the deck when in position like the home depot ladders they use to stock shelves.  The box is insulated with fiberglass bats the R factor of which would depend on the ambient temperature of the garage.

There is replaceable filter on the hood end and a small blower by the gas popper which would change out air in the box every hour.

A tiny heat pump and a dehumidifier can be wired to controls to keep the car between 50 to 60F all year round.

If the box is insulated well it's likely that temperature of the car will always be close to that of the shop floor and little energy will be needed to keep swing the box temperature.

Small museums are up to speed on a lot of this.

There is a potential problem insofar that when the car is driven in the heat and cold a greater effect, damage wise, might be forthcoming since the car was for lack of a better word, spoiled rotten.
Title: Re: Storage conditions
Post by: DragPack69 on September 21, 2018, 04:35:28 pm
Both of mine stay in a heated (70 deg) garage w 2 ceiling fans on low, never had a problem

Title: Re: Storage conditions
Post by: 69cobrajetrugae2 on September 25, 2018, 10:43:42 pm
When the car is hot after a run seal the fuel popper nipple with a high quality HVAV metal tape and turn a petcock in the rubber hose from the fuel tank to the off position, or pinch it off with special vise grip pliers and run the car at 2000 rpm until it dies. Crank it to make sure it won't re start. Remove the air cleaner lid and allow the heat of the engine to evaporate the remaining fuel.

Otherwise the fuel vapors will start a corrosion process which is most likely witnessed on the chrome popper gas cap and the bumper.  Leaving a vented car in an enclosed garage will deposit a film which is most noticeable on the glass as a light film of oil.

In addition, leaving fuel in the supply lines fuel pump filter and carburetor will absorb moisture by way of the ethanol which will then phase separate leaving a egg white mess which is very hard to remove and can damage fuel pump check valves and restrict carburetor passages. 100 percent leaded racing fuel is stable for up to 5 years, perhaps longer and won't cause the aforementioned mechanical issues.

Here is what this company recommends for artwork.

The 50 percent humidity seems high but the temperature is low at 70 so perhaps mitigating shrinkage is an important aspect to properly storing a vehicle and regular maintenance must also be important insofar as chrome and soft interior items.