Recent Posts

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1
General Discussion / Re: Speedometer Adaptor?
« Last post by Mike_B_SVT on Today at 08:47:50 pm »
Sorry for dredging this one up, but to keep the gears aligned is there a spring inside? My car is an automatic, but im sure the principle is the same.

Ray, here is an "exploded view" from the Boss 302 site.


http://www.boss302.com/smf/index.php?topic=68920.0;all
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General Discussion / Re: No fuel pressure
« Last post by redscj on Today at 08:35:56 pm »
     Ooooh, there is some good advice.
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General Discussion / Re: Valve Cover bolts Again
« Last post by redscj on Today at 08:21:58 pm »
     In my opinion, lots wrong with the bolt. Actually, my guess is the only things right are the size & thread pitch. Only because I trust that you unscrewed it from a head. Sorry.
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General Discussion / Re: No fuel pressure
« Last post by Jiffy on Today at 06:04:05 pm »
If the pump is out, remove the 6 screws holding it together and clean it (remove the two large screws holding the bottom on then clean and reassemble the lower case onto the valve body) then test the valves while the top is off.
Put your mouth over the inlet tube and blow - air should flow. Then suck hard - it should seal tight with a snap.
Put your mouth over the outlet fitting, suck hard, air should flow. Then blow hard, valve should snap shut. If the valves aren’t sealing then this may be the issue.
Reassemble afterwards using the 6 screws.
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General Discussion / Re: 1969 Mach 1 CJ
« Last post by cbuczesk on Today at 05:56:24 pm »
Yeah, it was running/driving when he took it off the road to paint it. Everything _should_ be there. I’m in south-central PA. About 45 minutes from Carlisle. John - if you’re headed this way I could use a set of knowledgeable eyes.

I don’t think he’d lie to me about anything but his memory isn’t the best. I’ve been studying up on the numbers and where they’re located. I’ll be taking notes from this thread too. Axle code is R which is ok with me. I want to drive it to shows and enjoy it so that’s a good ratio for me.

I have the money, a huge garage, tools, experience restoring cars, etc. Spending a couple hundred a year is ok. I road race in SCCA where I dump a lot more money. Ugh.

A 69 Mach 1 is my girlfriend’s dream car so that’s factor too. She likes that it’s a 4-speed. :-)

Chuck

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General Discussion / Re: Valve Cover bolts Again
« Last post by 70cj428 on Today at 05:00:38 pm »
Nope …….
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General Discussion / Re: 1969 Mach 1 CJ
« Last post by 70cj428 on Today at 04:59:44 pm »
Hi, Where in Pa are you located ?  I'm on the east end of the state, if your close I can take a look at the car for you, I'm a long tine CJ owner and know these cars inside and out. Car doesn't look bad but 38K seems a little high IMHO.

John
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General Discussion / Re: Valve Cover bolts Again
« Last post by RoyceP on Today at 04:59:33 pm »
It's not an original valve cover bolt.


Anyone ever see this style bolt used on the valve covers of a September built 70 Dearborn SCJ Mach 1?
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General Discussion / Valve Cover bolts Again
« Last post by 0t02g152149 on Today at 04:51:37 pm »
Anyone ever see this style bolt used on the valve covers of a September built 70 Dearborn SCJ Mach 1?
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General Discussion / Re: 1969 Mach 1 CJ
« Last post by redscj on Today at 04:49:44 pm »
     I agree, the rear panel has been replaced. It looks like a rim blow steering wheel. I can see a clutch pedal  & a manual trans shifter.
     As Dave is saying. Anything missing is gonna cost you dearly. If he truly parked it then he should have a complete car. Badger him until he shows them or tells you where they went. Your trying to buy a complete car so he should be able to produce one.
     Stay up all night & go thru the component i/d section. That is the real stuff. No matter what the story is. These are the real parts that it was built with. Anything else is highly likely a fish story.
     Drivetrain stuff is expensive. You need to start at the front (engine) and verify everything back to & including the rear axle assembly. Block is a bit tuff, look at the casting date down on the bottom by the oil filter adapter. Then pull the flywheel dust cover & look for the scratch C on the back of the block. External casting numbers mean nothing. A scratch C with a casting date in line with the date of the car is highly indicative that you have a 428CJ block. Heavy cast external ribs will indicate a service replacement block. Tag on trans is easy. Many center chunks were robbed from the axle assemblies. A look at the end of the axle where the rims center up on will tell you is it has the correct 31 splines axles.
     It is important that you look at the axle code on the drivers side door. If the code is a W or a V then you have even more research & inspection to do.
     Not saying the money is bad or good. I suspect that a complete car with the correct CJ parts with little to minimal rust damage might be in that range.
     Now the biggest questions. Do you have $38k? Do you have a suitable place to work on it? Do you have the skills needed or at least the aptitude to aquire the skills? Can you afford to throw a hundred or two at it for miscellaneous things for the next 2-3 years, maybe a little longer?
     Oh, if you do buy it. For heavens sake get every extra part he has. Even if he says the it is a junk part. Keep us posted.
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