Author Topic: Reproducing Dolly Marks  (Read 1469 times)

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Offline J_Speegle

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Reproducing Dolly Marks
« on: February 22, 2008, 09:29:03 pm »
As many of you understand our Mustangs traveled down the assembly line on a series of mounting points (8 in total) that attached the car to a moving "dolly"

At 4 of these points the car was bolted to the dolly and at the other 4 points the car simply sat on stands.




Originally the frame rails were galvanized so you will first need to reproduce this look where the marks will be left on the bottom of the car. At the four that will be in the trunk or interior the surface metal will need to be prepped and later protected to reproduce that look.  There is a full pdf article for reproducing the galvanizing (faking it) as well as dolly marks at ConcoursMustang.com in the Library) 

Many of you have found your own way to reproduce the look and feel of these bare metal spots, here is what I'm trying with the most recent car I'm helping with.

Original examples of Dolly marks On the first picture notice the U shaped spray shadow produced when the pinch weld black out was blocked by the shaft that held the car up. If you use tape, washer or other low tool to produce your marks the results will not have the "U"









8 dolly tools were made from hardware pieces. 4 for blind holes (ones without access from both sides) and 4 that pass through for the bolted to the dolly look.



 I've attached a short piece of PVC pipe to produce a shadow that the mounting point would have originally (still need to do it to the first two) The blind dolly tools are assembled so that as you tighten them the heater hose expands and tightens on the back side of the hole holding it in place.

Dolly Tools & Their Installation Just what worked for me ;)











For 69-70's I've discovered at least two different sizes of washers placed on top of the 4 pass through mounting points. Don't know why... they just did  (at least San Jose and Dearborn) You can normally find the depression in the interior floor and trunk which will indicate the size of the hold down part of the dolly tool and reproduce it (just a later washer or disc inserted between the tool and the body). In this case to compensate for the larger size I simply placed a used cutoff wheel under the smaller washer to get the right sized shadow. Lower post dia seem to be around 1 3/4"

Also for 67-70's built at San Jose and Dearborn the rear most dolly mark will have a second on on each side slightly further back on the frame rails. Seems that the rearmost mount included both the Mustang and Cougar (long er body) attachment points  so both would leave a shadow though both would not hold the body to the skid

Example of the double rear dolly marks Of course originally the finish would be more distinct and no so worn ;)




Just thought I would share ;)


« Last Edit: March 18, 2013, 06:39:45 pm by Jeff_Speegle »

Offline sah62

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Re: Reproducing Dolly Marks
« Reply #1 on: February 23, 2008, 06:07:33 am »
Thanks, Jeff!
Scott Hollenbeck
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Offline VASCJ

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Re: Reproducing Dolly Marks
« Reply #2 on: February 23, 2008, 07:54:48 am »
nice work Jeff, thanks for sharing.

Offline SCJSTU

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Re: Reproducing Dolly Marks
« Reply #3 on: February 28, 2008, 06:51:58 am »
yep thats a neat detail item.....my car had them preserved by undercoating and when the PO removed it there  were the marks clear as could be....
1970 Mustang convertible 351C
1956 Ford F100 Big Window 392 Hemi
1961 Ford Econoline Pickup-Bagged
1961 Falcon 2 Door Station Wagon 302V8
1963 Falcon Ranchero
1970 Chevy Blazer 2WD
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Offline x-70option

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Re: Reproducing Dolly Marks
« Reply #4 on: September 27, 2008, 09:10:33 pm »
When Chris was working on the bottom of my car we too, reproduced the marks (they were plain to see sizes)



THEN he said "I covered them with clear-so they stay shiny"   I was upset (as I want the car to age/the second time after me)  Then he said "I'm only kidding!"  (he knew I wouldn't want anything on the car that was weird)

Mark
P.S. It looked like the bolt thru area was the floor pans under the front rug and the rear trunk area (they are larger bare areas)   I have rust (oxidation flash) on those areas now and am very happy!

Mark Haas
517 861 7630 cel